RIP Lemmy

Born to lose, lived to win (1945-2015)

I tought He was immortal, I'm very sad . I attended a lot of Motorhead concerts, they were always a great rock show!
Backdoor Brewery logo is inspired to the Ace of Spades.
Now I need to brew a celebration beer, must find out the best recipe. It must be black, like a Black IPA, but also with bourbon notes, like a Jack and Coke. Maybe a robust porter with american hops and some peated?

RIP Lemmy.

Black IPA

Last bottled beer is my Black IPA, 666: O 1066 and 66 IBU. Last year the beer was OK, my first Black IPA, and for the next version I just wanted to use some Chinook instead of Amarillo, to add more piney-resiny flavors, and move more hop in flavor and aroma, leaving a minimum amount in first wort hopping.

As usual, when I look at the ingredients, I have to change many things: no more Amarillo, so I used Simcoe. Then I fermented on a S-04 cake instead of US-05, so mas had to be lower, as well as the quantities of crystal: with a less attenuant yeast is better to give him more fermentable sugars, to keep te same FG as last batch and avoid the clogging sweet effect of an underattenuated beer. In the end, I changed bot grist and hopping.

Now I hope the 6 grams per liter in late boiling are enough for a good aroma, as I don’t like Dry Hopping in my beers. And I hope Simcoe smell of sweated armpit will lower down while maturing: is the second lot I use from that hop, and it gives the same bad smell as previous lot.

Pepperstout

Last bottled batch was a Dry Stout, very easy with Pale malt and 10% of black malts, Chocolate and Roasted barley. I hate astringency in datk beers, so I've been really careful: I made a diluted mash (over 3l per kg of grain) to avoid excessive acidification, then I corrected ph of sparging water below 6 to avoid tannin extraction that happens at higher ph. Sparging temperature was under 75 C to avoid further risk of tannin extraction.
At the bottling I decided to split the batch and make a couple of liters of spicy beer: I infused 20 grams of chili peppers in 20cl vodka, let them rest for a week, then I added the filtered infusion at the end of the bottling. While making those blendings, I test the quantities before, putting some drops of adding (measured with a syringe) in a glass with 10 cl of beer from the keg: here I found that 0,1ml was enough to add strong spicyness to the beer. So my 20 ml extract was enough to blend 2 liters of stout. At the end of the bottling, then, when there were two liters left in the keg, I threw the pepper extract, stirred gently and went on bottling.
Errors are always waiting for you: I had no labels ready, so I labeled the beer the following day, and I wasn't able to tell wich bottles were the spicy ones. I put those all togheter without any mark.

Maderizzazione - Secondo episodio

L'esperimento descritto qui risale ormai al 2011. Credo di avere ancora delle bottiglie avanzate, ma sono sepolte in cantina, e non verranno riesumate per parecchi anni. Nel frattempo la produzione di birre vintage va avanti: un anno fa ho imbottigliato una Ale belga fermentata con Trappist HG e lasciata a maderizzare per 5 mesi .
Questa volta la OG era più bassa, ho effettuato un priming con aggiunta di zucchero (1g/litro) e lievito fresco. Non volevo un nuovo pseudo-passito ma una birra da divano, con un pochino di gasatura. A distanza di un anno circa ho stappato una bottiglia: è una bella belgian dark strong, ma esteri e fenoli si sono ammorbiditi e sono accompanati da note di sherry non evidentissime ma presenti. Nel complesso è una buona birra da meditazione.
Ora devo imbottigliare la n.3, barley wine che sta maderizzando da luglio. Come al solito mezza cotta è già imbottigliata, e dopo sei mesi si lascia bere molto volentieri: grazie al chinook che ho usato in bollitura (avevo finito il challenger) ha una bella nota resinosa e fruttata, che purtroppo si perderà con l'invecchiamento.

Aggiornamento:
Ho stappato la n.3, dopo alcuni mesi di bottiglia (la versione maderizzata) ed oltre sei mesi la versione standard.
La versione standard ha comunque una lieve nota ossidata, assieme al usto maltato molto pieno, con note che vanno dal caramello alle melanoidine, frutta essicata, alla liquirizia; una lieve nota di uva e resinoso dato dal Chinook (ancora evidente). La maderizzata ha aromi molto più spenti, il malto è evidente ma non così variegato, ed ovviamente il legnoso e marsalato è più forte (sì, l'ossidazione da delle note legnose, anche se non è fatta in botte).
Nel complesso preferisco la versione imbottigliata fresca: per un po' gli esperimenti di maerizzazione sono sospesi!

Belle Saison and high temperature fermentation

Summer always bring high temperatures, and in my cellar is too warm to have nice and clean fermentations. I'm too lazy to build a fermentation chamber,  so I decited to test Lallemand Belle Saison yeast, to ceck if is possible to ferment in a cellar at 22°C, that means 24-25°C in the fermantation tank. I brewed some beers and fermented them in a tank surrounded by four iced water bottled and wrapped in a blanket to insulate it: direct measures on wort, showed that wort temperature was equal to cellar one. That means the heat from fermentation was balanced by my primitive cooling system.
I tried two Saison style beers, slightly different. In the third one I decided to put 10% roasted malts: I got tired of saisons, and wanted something different.

Saison 1
Malts:
  4000 gr German 2-row Pils, 96%;
  150 gr Brown sugar (dark), 4%;
Hops:
  15 gr Aramis, 7,8 %a.a., 60 min;
  20 gr Styrian Goldings, 5,7 %a.a., 60 min;
  38 gr Styrian Goldings, 5,7 %a.a., 20 min;
  30 gr Saaz, 2,3 %a.a., 5 min;
  30 gr Saaz, 2,3 %a.a., 0 min;
Yeast:
  Belle Saison, 1 pack
IBU: 43; EBC: 14
Fermentation:
Wort at 24-25°C for the first two days, then 22°C (cellar temperature).
OG 1052, FG 998

Saison 2
Malts:
  3000 gr German 2-row Pils, 1,038;
  1000 gr Munich Malt(light), 1,034;
  370 gr Oats, Flaked, 1,037;
Hops:
  20 gr Aramis, 7,8 %a.a., 60 min;
  17 gr Styrian Goldings, 5,7 %a.a., 20 min
Yeast:
  Belle Saison yeast cake
IBU: 26; EBC: 15;
Fermentation:
Wort at, 22°C controlled temperature for te whole fermentation.
OG 1056. FG 1004

Black Saison
Malts:
  1300 gr German 2-row Pils, 1,038;
  1300 gr German Light Munich, 1,037;
  150 gr Chocolate Malt, 1,034;
  150 gr Roasted Barley, 1,029;
Hops:
  20 gr Aramis, 7,8 %a.a., 60 min;
  10 gr Aramis, 7,8 %a.a., 20 min;
Yeast:
  Belle Saison yeast cake, third generation
IBU: 21,9; EBC: 64
Fermentation:
Wort at, 22°C controlled temperature for te whole fermentation
OG 1042. FG 1008

Main difference between the two Saison is due to the Munich malt: Saison 2 is darker, with higher body, also thanks to the flaked oats and the lack of sugar, while Saison 1 has an apparent FG of 0.998! If you give simple sugars to Belle, it's a piranha, but don't worry: it won't eat your fermentor nor complex sugars from special grists (mash were identical for the three batches).
Saison 1 has lots of phenols in aroma, and heavy fruity notes covering all hops aromas. Phenols are noticeable also at taste with unpleasant bitterness and high cytric notes .
Better the Saison 2, with esters more evident in aroma, wit notes of pear, grapevine uva and medium phenol (but again a bit unpleasant): lower temperature brings lower off-flavors. In this beer there are noticeable malty notes, from Munich. As always with this yeast, all fermentation notes are evident in the nose, but lighter in the flavour. Malt with a bit of melanoidins is evident but fruity esters are medium-low, distant from classic saison, while the spicy phenols and a citric note are more evident.
Those two beers are not comparable with Black Saison: here roasted malts covered all fermentation aromas, just a hint of ester to the nose: roasted malts worked as concrete to cover in black phenols and off flavors. The only disturbing detail is the citric saison-like acidity that is not suited at all with roasty notese (to have an idea, try to squeeze a slice of lemon in a pint of Guinness if you dare).

In the end, to use Belle Saison at best, better to keep temperatures around 20°C and raise after 4-5 days when strong fermentation is over.
In other words, I need a fermentation chamber.

My worst homebrewing mistakes

Here the seven worst errors made during my homebrewing years. Small distractions and huge mistakes.

7) Wrong Preboil OG
After sparging, I went to take a sample from the boiling pot to measure preboil OG. After cooling I read it with a densimeter: 1,026. What?!? Mash and sparge went well, iodium was OK, same procedure as ever..well, maybe malt was too old and lost some conversion power. Well, I didn't want a 1,030 OG beer, so I added sugar, did a 90 minutes boil to add some OG points and added a bunch of american hops to make a zesty session beer to drink during summer. After cooling the worth, I measured again the density: 1052.
I made a huge mistake taking the sample for the preboil OG measure: I took it from the upper part of the worth, without stirring, so I measured the lowest density worth coming from the end of the sparge.

6) Diamalt (bakery malt extract)
At dawn of homebrewing in Italy, many websites (and many homebrewer) used to brew with baking malt extract: cheaper than extract malt and similar, everybody tought it was the same thing. Including me. I got this Diamalt extract from a bakery and brewed an English Ale. The beer was something acid but sweet, with vanishing fizzy head, no hop aroma.

5) Wrong priming procedure
It was my second brew from kit, and I wanted to improve bottling and priming: not sugar in the bottle anymore, but mixing all sugar with the beer. So I measured sugar, made a syrup and added it in the primary fermentor. Without moving the beer in a secondary tank. I stirred very gently, to avoid to move the yeast cake and the bottled. Obviously, bottles had a huge sediment and beer was undrinkable...

4) Burning Mash
I mash in a 25 liter pot, on the fire to set temperature: here you must be careful to not overheat the whole mash. I just tried once an Imperial Stout, that was when I forgon the fire on after 30 minutes mashing. It reached 75°C, enough to denature enzymes and block conversion reaction. I went on anyway, mashing at alpha amylase temperature, but I had a very low efficiency and a 1050 OG after boiling. Anyway, the stout I produced was quite OK.

3) Open spigot
The fermenting tank was sanitized and ready to be filled with worth, after six hours process. I started the transfer from the pot and I realized the tank spigot was open, and the worth pissing out on the floor. I tried to close the spigot, but it was wet and slippery, so I drop the tube spilling worth, closed the spigot, trow on myself some worth, cleaned the couple of liters that went on the floor and started back the transfer from the pot. I was pissed off and tired, so I just sucked the tube to make empty and start the tube transfer. It works, you don't get any problem or infection if you do it correctly. No need for pumps or other strange method to prime the tube.

2) Dirty hop bag
Once I brewed an heater beer: To give it aroma, I added some heater flowers at the end of the boiling. The problem is that I added those flowers at flameout without sanitizing the hopbag (heater has tiny and light flowers; I didn't want them floating on the top of the worth). This hopbag spent few months in a drawer, colletting all the bacteria that were in my kitchen (not really clean...). I got an acid infection, and after a couple of months, when I tasted my Heater Ale I found out a nice sour beer.

1) Missed FG and explosions in the cellar
I was a noob at my third brew by kit: I bottled at 1,020 density, as the FG concept was not clear to me and I did't consider effect of overcarbonation. It was summer, and one morning explosion came from the cellar. I was lucky nobody was around, I just had to clean the mess of beer and glass and did,t get hurt.
THIS IS THE MOST DANGEROUS MISTAKE EVERY HOMEBREWER CAN DO, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER BOTTLE IF YOU DIDN'T REACH FG, AND DENSITY ISN'T STABLE FOR A FEW DAYS.

Spent grain snack bars

Homebrewing is a really unefficient process. I get 5 kilograms of grains every batch, and living in the city, the only way to get rid of them is to recycle in the organic bin. No chicken, no pigs to feed with it. I saved some grain from the last homebrew and made some kind of snack bars.

Ingredients:
300g spent grains
40g sugar
60ml water
15g butter

Dry the grains in oven, 100°C for a couple of hours (you can do that the evening before, or after sparging).
Make a sugar syrup: add sugar and water and bring to boil, keep it boiling for 5-10 minutes, until it's enough dense.
Then add the butter and let it melt, mixing everything.
Add the dryed grains, mix with a spoon, and put the mix on a baking tray, heat the oven at 100°C for 30 minutes, then let everything cool down for some hours

Now you can cut or break it in small bars.

The recipe is quite easy, you cannot use the whole grain but is a cool and tasty snack, the perfect food to calm down the hunger after drinking too many beers...

Prague

Czech Republic is the homeland of Pilsner Urquell, the land of Saaz hop and where the lager beer born. Since then, there was no great improvement in beer: you can find good (and bad) pilsner at a good price (2-3€ per liter), a dark beer (kind of a schwartzbeer) and nothing more: one of the most innovative beers here is the Staropramen unfiltered lager. I still can't understand why you ferment at low temperature to have a clean taste, and then leave a lot of yeast to make the beer hazy and add yeast flavours and off-flavours.
I visited this pub: http://www.praguebeermuseum.com/ with 30 taps, almost all lagers from Czech Republic, I tasted a Cerna Hora Qvasar that was badly stocked and was stinking, and a 'moravian ale' with Saaz hops higly fermented: well, it's a waste to charge such noble hop with ale esters.
Here is a good brewery, close to Petrinske Sadi park http://www.klasterni-pivovar.cz/. They have good lager (obviously), but also Weizend and a IPA: classic and simple with Amarillo and Cascade, the kind of american IPA I really like.
To have a good and cheap dinner check here http://www.kolkovna.cz/ the Pilsner Urquell restaurants. But the best Urquell I tasted was the tank one at the bar on top of the Riegrovy Sady park, fresher and with more intense hop flavours.
If you walk around Loretanska street, there is a small bistro with no name; hey just talk in czeck but have menu in different languages, so it's perfect for a cheap lunch and a good beer.

Wild hopped beer

Every homebrewer wonder how wild hop can be used, wich flavours will producce in the beer, and how drinkable can be a beer with wild hop.
I found wild hop flowers last september, biking around the countryside. Those flowers had no aroma, but a lot of oils and resins: my hands were sticky after collecting hop, and was a mess to get the bike handle in my hands after.

I forgot the hop in the freezer for months, then I run out of hallertauer while brewing a Bock: I decided to go on with the original recipe with fewer liter, and use 3 liters at the end of the sparge for a separate boiling, with the 150g of this wild hop (not dry, fresh freezed) and at the end I got two liters of wild hopped beer.
I called that beer Martesana, as the name of the artificial waterway that runs in the countryside where I collected the hop: sparge leftovers, wild hop and recicled Bavarian lager. Despite the ingredients, the beer turned out drinkable: no off-flavor, no garlic or onion smells like the wild hops I found in the past. Well, no hop aroma at all, and very low bitter, but OK for a kinda Bock: obviously not the best bock I ever drinked, not even the worst.

So, if you find wild hop and the flowers have no strange arome, they can be used to brew. Anyway, I used 150g for two liter, so you will need one-two kilogram of wild hop for a normal batch. I think it's not worth...

Martesana channel

BCJP certification...

...work in progress

Densimeter correction: Alcohol percentage

Online you find very poor informations about densimeter correction depending on alcohol content in beer, just tons of formulas about apparent vs. real attenuation with Plato and Brix scale, that are almost worthless.
If my saison FG is 997, I know it's very dry, but wich part is the alcohol, and how many residual sugars do I have in the beer?

Better answer would be: start using a rifractometer.
But I did this intead: I measured density at different dilution of cheap Vodka (37,75% Alc.), more specifically 18,87%, 9,43%, 4,72/, 2,36%, 1,18% alcohol. Then I plotted the table here, obtaining the following curve.

Here is the final table, with Alc.%, density, and the points to be added to densimeter

Qui la tabella, con la percentuale di alcool, la relativa densità in acqua, ed i punti che bisognerebbe correggere quando si legge la densità finale dal densimetro. 

Alc %	density	correction
1	998,155	1,84
2	997,11	2,89
3	996,065	3,93
4	995,02	4,98
5	993,975	6,02
6	992,93	7,07
7	991,885	8,12
8	990,84	9,16
9	989,795	10,20
10	988,75	11,25

So, my barley Wine OG 1094 that after 5 days was at a measured density of 1024, is not at 9% Alc., but if I correct according to the table it, is around 8%, and the apparent density of 1024 correspond to 1034: that means 90g/litro of residual sugars. So the fermentation is not finished and it will need some more days to get the real FG...

Bock?

Bock is a medieval style, dark and strong beers with powerful nature, in fact the name Bock means Billygoat. During Easter fast, german monks used to drink Bock as substitution for food. A good Bock needs to have a strong malty taste with caramel notes, full body and a red color. The only problem with that style is that, even if you like it, you cannot drink liters of it without getting drunk soon (unless you're a monk during Lent maybe...).
What is really good in homebrewing, is the possibility to play with malt, mashing temperatures and hops, to brew the beer that fully satisfy your tastes. In that case, who gives a shit if the beer is outside style parameters? For that reason, my last bock was made with Munich malt, 10% of Cara and Crystal to get caramel notes '1% of black malt, for a little hint of roasted taste. Mash was a decoction, and I used Hersbrucher hop up to 30 IBU. OG was 1060 (according to BJCP is too low, and the hop also is too much).

Here is the result: a great red beer, malty and full bodied with caramel notes. It's not too sweet: the bitter and hearty taste from Hersbrucker, and the black malt succeeded in balancing the malts, and thanks to the low OG and the high temperature mash (67°C), alcool is not detectable, and quite low (6%).

It's really a good point to change recipe parameters according to your taste!

Bock?

Le Bock hanno origine nel medioevo, erano birre forti e scure, che durante la quaresima venivano utilizzate dai monaci tedeschi al posto del cibo. Una buona Bock deve avere un gusto pieno e maltato, un buon corpo, note di caramello e un bel colore rosso. L'unico difetto di queste birre è che non possono essere bevute a secchiate senza sbronzarsi velocemente (a meno che non siate monaci in quaresima...).
Il bello  dell'homebrewing è crearsi la ricetta che soddisfa i propri gusti, giocare con le quantità di malto ed il mash per ottenere qualcosa che ci soddisfa. E magari fregarsene se non si rispetta del tutto lo stile. Per questo l'ultima bock che ho prodotto ha una base di monaco, il 10% di malti cara e crystal per esaltare le note di caramello, e l'1% di black, per dare un po' di gusto tostato. Ovviamente faccio un bel mash in decozione, e butto luppolo Hersbrucker in amaro per 30 IBU. OG di 1060 (un pò bassa per il BJCP, e un pò troppo luppolo, ma c'è un perchè).

Ecco il risultato: una bella birra rossa, corposa e maltata. Niente pericolo dolcione: l'amaro terroso del luppolo Hersbrucker, e la piccola aggiunta di malto tostato bilanciano le note dolci e caramellose, e visto che ho tenuto l'OG bassa ed il mash alto (do temperatura), l'alcol non è eccessivo.

A volte conviene aggiustarsi un pochino i parametri secondo i propri gusti!

India Pale Lager ?!?

Everybody loves american hops. Too much. There is an APA, IPA, blackipa, whiteipa invasion...everything can be IPAzed. Every microbrewery is putting tons of Cascade, Citra, Amarillo; mainly for Dry-hopping. Cool, you have a fresh, fruity, zesty beer: the problem is that my beer tastes like soda or Fanta, lousy body, malt not detectable. And with those beers I have the awkward sensation as when I was a child, drinking the Baby Orange Aspirin.

Personally, I deleted Dry-hopping from techincs I use: the fruity and aromatic effects just last one month, the hoppy aromas disappear; and on the other side the risks of infetions are too high. First wort hopping, is much better and reach comparable results, if combined with a giant dose (3-4 g/l) of hops at 20 minutes before the end of the boiling. And again 5 minutes before. And again at the end of boiling. To avoid the Baby-Aspirin effeect, I do a high temperature mash to increase the body, use 10-15% of Cara and Crystal malts and use a one-step decoction: that gives me a really malty and nutty taste, perfect to balance the high hoppines.

Thanks to those brewing adjustments, I get IPAs and APAs with a pleasant zesty taste, stable during months; so I decided to go a step further: low fermentation and lagering. The goal is to get a cleaner taste, to eliminate the bread-like taste given by ale yeasts and emphasize just the malt and the hops, like in a pils. Because if in a pils you can put on top the Saaz flavour, then Cascade and Amarillo will not disappear with lagering.
So, I put lots of hops at the end of the boiling, 40 IBU on 50 total in the last 20 minute (just for 10 IBU in First Wort hopping. Now, the India Pale Lager is lagering, after a primary fermentation with Saflager.

Italian version

Tabella BU/GU per stile, correzione densimetro, punti OG

In una pagina rassunto dei parametri BU/GU, per stile, correzione densimetro, attività enzimi, utilizzo luppolo:


qui in versione pdf:

Lazy Homebrewing

I'm definitely the laziest homebrewer on earth. Well, considering all the time required for this hobby, lazy is not the correct word, but is true that I adapted years ago my equipment to brew in a flat and I didn'd evolve much.

'mash tun' and mill

Since more than ten years I brew with pots on the kitchen's fires. I use a classic Marga miller for malt, a zapap flter made adapting a fermenting keg, zero automation. My batches are around 20 liters, so it's easy to deal without pumps, recirculation, counterflux etc.: I grind the malt directly in the pot, add water, heat up the mash on the fire at the right temperature and I wait for the conversion. Using pots allow me to do even complicate mash, like decoction, just moving the mash from one pot to the other.

zapap filter

A very important point in homebrewing is ph control, to allow enzymes work at the best, and maximize efficiency. So please don't imitate me, because I never measure Ph. If you use a grain/water ratio between 2,5 and 3 l/kg the Ph in your mash will adjust at the right value to allow enzymes work (5,2 - 5,6). Thanks to that I can reach an efficiency of 75% e l'80% even if I never used a litmus paper. Then, I just add toasted grains only in the last 20 minutes of the mash (for stout and dark beers): those grains are the ones that give more Ph fluctuation, and cause risk of tannin extraction, astringency etc. With a late addition in the mash I can avoid the toasty become astringency.
My mash tun has a spigot for the bazooka filter: that's the best solution for sparging I think, unfortunately my bazooka just worked for one batch. The second time I used it I went into a stuck sparge, so I had to recover my old zapap filter, a plastic basin where I made holes, and that I put on top of the fermenter. I put the mash there and start sparging, water is heated in another pot and flushed on the zapap. I recover the moist from the spigot (recirculating the first 4-5 liters) in the boiling pot, that is then put on fire.

boiling

copper cooling coil

I use a classic coil with circulating water to cool down the worth, then I put everything in the vessel. After aerating the worth and inoculating the yeast, the beer stays in the cellar to ferment!

italiano