Barley Wine 2016

Today is Barley Wine brewing day!
Same recipe as past year (at least I try), Pale and Munich (20%) as base malts, with a little Crystal and Chocolate (3% each) plus raw cane sugar to reach 1085 OG. Decoction, plus ninety munites boil will enhance malty notes, caramel, melanoidins, dried fruits...
Fifty IBU, with a little Chinook at twenty minutes boiling to add fruity and piney notes. This is not an American Barleywine, but a little american hop helps.

This year I'm gonna bottle everything soon, the Barley Wine will agge in bottle. No maderization experiments this time: it's the same recipe al last year that I splitted to maderize half: this second version was not as good as the original one, as it lost a lot of malty notes, red fruit and dried fruit aromas, while the portlike tones were not enough to balance the loss.

Catpiss bitter

Romeo,  Backdoor Brewery mascot, passed away two weeks ago. He was a nice, red cat, and he really liked american and pacific hops. He spent half an hour purring around a big parcel of Vic Secret, just a week before we found a terrible limphoma attacked him.

I want to remember him with this recipe, a 4% abv bitter enerously hopped with Simcoe, to create a typical catpiss aroma. Obviously I added his beloved Vic Secret, hoping it will smoothen the simcoe and I'll ferment it with Kolsch yeast: it has to be piss, in the end.

Catpiss recipe, 20,0l (preboil 22,0)
efficiency  77%, 60 min. boilin
OG 1,038; IBU: 32,5; EBC: 11;
Maltis
  1700 gr Pale, 1,036;
  1360 gr Pilsen (2 Row), 1,039;
  140 gr CaraWien, 1,035;
Hops::
  5 gr Simcoe, 11,4 %a.a., 60 min;
  15 gr Vic Secret, 14,5 %a.a., 20 min;
  20 gr Vic Secret, 14,5 %a.a., 5 min;
  40 gr Simcoe, 11,4 %a.a., 0 min;
  20 gr Vic Secret, 14,5 %a.a., 0 min;

Spring is coming, and a session beer is ok, even if too extreme. Well, we will see if it's drinkable...

Altbier vs. Kölsch

Those two batches were brewed by chance: my homebrewing shop offered me a discounted pack of Wyeast Kölsch, so I decided to use it.

Kölsch vs. Alt 

I never liked Kölsch I tasted: too weak, too watery and with faint aromas, so I decided to produce an Altbier: amber, more bodied and with a higher hoppage than a Kölsch, but again with an hybrid fermentation, ale yeast (Alt means 'old') and lagered at low temperaturesm. I used Ho Pale and Munich malts, togheter with 6% Crystal, to give good caramel and melanoidins notes, all balanced with generous hop adjuncts of Hersbrucker and Aramis (a french hop with good aa% and perfect for bittering european lagers).

Kölsch and Altbier are served in the stange, the same tall and tiny glass, to drink it faster before delicate fruity aromas fade away. Produced and drinked in the same way, those beers are protected regional denominations, and can be produced only in the corresponding area of origin: that led to the big challenge between the two cities and theyr own beers

Anyway, after primary fermentation I moved the beer in another tank for the lagering: the beer had a gentle and elegant fruity aroma of apple and green fruith, so I decided to reuse yeast and brew a Kölsch style beer.

After the lagering, I brewed a light beer based on Pils, sweet water and a little Hersbrucker (20 IBU), bottled the Alt, and put the light wort on the yeast cake.

I did the same job as the donkey in the famous picture that drinks one beer and piss out the other: nice idea for the labels.

 

Labels are almost identical. Just a different color, like beers (but don't tell to people from Koln or Dusseldorf that their beers are so similar...).

Alt is already drinkable, slightly fruity, well hopped and bitter, withh caramel notes above all. In the meanwhile Kölsch has just been bottled, and the first sample from the fermenter isn't bad: light, watery and with faint hop notes. Like a canned Finkbrau: hopefully it will get better after few weeks...

Altbier, in a stange (oops! that's a Kölsch glass!)

I kept some Kölsch yeast, want to try it on a Bitter.

Belle Saison and high temperature fermentation

Summer always bring high temperatures, and in my cellar is too warm to have nice and clean fermentations. I'm too lazy to build a fermentation chamber,  so I decited to test Lallemand Belle Saison yeast, to ceck if is possible to ferment in a cellar at 22°C, that means 24-25°C in the fermantation tank. I brewed some beers and fermented them in a tank surrounded by four iced water bottled and wrapped in a blanket to insulate it: direct measures on wort, showed that wort temperature was equal to cellar one. That means the heat from fermentation was balanced by my primitive cooling system.
I tried two Saison style beers, slightly different. In the third one I decided to put 10% roasted malts: I got tired of saisons, and wanted something different.

Saison 1
Malts:
  4000 gr German 2-row Pils, 96%;
  150 gr Brown sugar (dark), 4%;
Hops:
  15 gr Aramis, 7,8 %a.a., 60 min;
  20 gr Styrian Goldings, 5,7 %a.a., 60 min;
  38 gr Styrian Goldings, 5,7 %a.a., 20 min;
  30 gr Saaz, 2,3 %a.a., 5 min;
  30 gr Saaz, 2,3 %a.a., 0 min;
Yeast:
  Belle Saison, 1 pack
IBU: 43; EBC: 14
Fermentation:
Wort at 24-25°C for the first two days, then 22°C (cellar temperature).
OG 1052, FG 998

Saison 2
Malts:
  3000 gr German 2-row Pils, 1,038;
  1000 gr Munich Malt(light), 1,034;
  370 gr Oats, Flaked, 1,037;
Hops:
  20 gr Aramis, 7,8 %a.a., 60 min;
  17 gr Styrian Goldings, 5,7 %a.a., 20 min
Yeast:
  Belle Saison yeast cake
IBU: 26; EBC: 15;
Fermentation:
Wort at, 22°C controlled temperature for te whole fermentation.
OG 1056. FG 1004

Black Saison
Malts:
  1300 gr German 2-row Pils, 1,038;
  1300 gr German Light Munich, 1,037;
  150 gr Chocolate Malt, 1,034;
  150 gr Roasted Barley, 1,029;
Hops:
  20 gr Aramis, 7,8 %a.a., 60 min;
  10 gr Aramis, 7,8 %a.a., 20 min;
Yeast:
  Belle Saison yeast cake, third generation
IBU: 21,9; EBC: 64
Fermentation:
Wort at, 22°C controlled temperature for te whole fermentation
OG 1042. FG 1008

Main difference between the two Saison is due to the Munich malt: Saison 2 is darker, with higher body, also thanks to the flaked oats and the lack of sugar, while Saison 1 has an apparent FG of 0.998! If you give simple sugars to Belle, it's a piranha, but don't worry: it won't eat your fermentor nor complex sugars from special grists (mash were identical for the three batches).
Saison 1 has lots of phenols in aroma, and heavy fruity notes covering all hops aromas. Phenols are noticeable also at taste with unpleasant bitterness and high cytric notes .
Better the Saison 2, with esters more evident in aroma, wit notes of pear, grapevine uva and medium phenol (but again a bit unpleasant): lower temperature brings lower off-flavors. In this beer there are noticeable malty notes, from Munich. As always with this yeast, all fermentation notes are evident in the nose, but lighter in the flavour. Malt with a bit of melanoidins is evident but fruity esters are medium-low, distant from classic saison, while the spicy phenols and a citric note are more evident.
Those two beers are not comparable with Black Saison: here roasted malts covered all fermentation aromas, just a hint of ester to the nose: roasted malts worked as concrete to cover in black phenols and off flavors. The only disturbing detail is the citric saison-like acidity that is not suited at all with roasty notese (to have an idea, try to squeeze a slice of lemon in a pint of Guinness if you dare).

In the end, to use Belle Saison at best, better to keep temperatures around 20°C and raise after 4-5 days when strong fermentation is over.
In other words, I need a fermentation chamber.

My worst homebrewing mistakes

Here the seven worst errors made during my homebrewing years. Small distractions and huge mistakes.

7) Wrong Preboil OG
After sparging, I went to take a sample from the boiling pot to measure preboil OG. After cooling I read it with a densimeter: 1,026. What?!? Mash and sparge went well, iodium was OK, same procedure as ever..well, maybe malt was too old and lost some conversion power. Well, I didn't want a 1,030 OG beer, so I added sugar, did a 90 minutes boil to add some OG points and added a bunch of american hops to make a zesty session beer to drink during summer. After cooling the worth, I measured again the density: 1052.
I made a huge mistake taking the sample for the preboil OG measure: I took it from the upper part of the worth, without stirring, so I measured the lowest density worth coming from the end of the sparge.

6) Diamalt (bakery malt extract)
At dawn of homebrewing in Italy, many websites (and many homebrewer) used to brew with baking malt extract: cheaper than extract malt and similar, everybody tought it was the same thing. Including me. I got this Diamalt extract from a bakery and brewed an English Ale. The beer was something acid but sweet, with vanishing fizzy head, no hop aroma.

5) Wrong priming procedure
It was my second brew from kit, and I wanted to improve bottling and priming: not sugar in the bottle anymore, but mixing all sugar with the beer. So I measured sugar, made a syrup and added it in the primary fermentor. Without moving the beer in a secondary tank. I stirred very gently, to avoid to move the yeast cake and the bottled. Obviously, bottles had a huge sediment and beer was undrinkable...

4) Burning Mash
I mash in a 25 liter pot, on the fire to set temperature: here you must be careful to not overheat the whole mash. I just tried once an Imperial Stout, that was when I forgon the fire on after 30 minutes mashing. It reached 75°C, enough to denature enzymes and block conversion reaction. I went on anyway, mashing at alpha amylase temperature, but I had a very low efficiency and a 1050 OG after boiling. Anyway, the stout I produced was quite OK.

3) Open spigot
The fermenting tank was sanitized and ready to be filled with worth, after six hours process. I started the transfer from the pot and I realized the tank spigot was open, and the worth pissing out on the floor. I tried to close the spigot, but it was wet and slippery, so I drop the tube spilling worth, closed the spigot, trow on myself some worth, cleaned the couple of liters that went on the floor and started back the transfer from the pot. I was pissed off and tired, so I just sucked the tube to make empty and start the tube transfer. It works, you don't get any problem or infection if you do it correctly. No need for pumps or other strange method to prime the tube.

2) Dirty hop bag
Once I brewed an heater beer: To give it aroma, I added some heater flowers at the end of the boiling. The problem is that I added those flowers at flameout without sanitizing the hopbag (heater has tiny and light flowers; I didn't want them floating on the top of the worth). This hopbag spent few months in a drawer, colletting all the bacteria that were in my kitchen (not really clean...). I got an acid infection, and after a couple of months, when I tasted my Heater Ale I found out a nice sour beer.

1) Missed FG and explosions in the cellar
I was a noob at my third brew by kit: I bottled at 1,020 density, as the FG concept was not clear to me and I did't consider effect of overcarbonation. It was summer, and one morning explosion came from the cellar. I was lucky nobody was around, I just had to clean the mess of beer and glass and did,t get hurt.
THIS IS THE MOST DANGEROUS MISTAKE EVERY HOMEBREWER CAN DO, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER BOTTLE IF YOU DIDN'T REACH FG, AND DENSITY ISN'T STABLE FOR A FEW DAYS.

Densimeter correction: Alcohol percentage

Online you find very poor informations about densimeter correction depending on alcohol content in beer, just tons of formulas about apparent vs. real attenuation with Plato and Brix scale, that are almost worthless.
If my saison FG is 997, I know it's very dry, but wich part is the alcohol, and how many residual sugars do I have in the beer?

Better answer would be: start using a rifractometer.
But I did this intead: I measured density at different dilution of cheap Vodka (37,75% Alc.), more specifically 18,87%, 9,43%, 4,72/, 2,36%, 1,18% alcohol. Then I plotted the table here, obtaining the following curve.

Here is the final table, with Alc.%, density, and the points to be added to densimeter

Qui la tabella, con la percentuale di alcool, la relativa densità in acqua, ed i punti che bisognerebbe correggere quando si legge la densità finale dal densimetro. 

Alc %	density	correction
1	998,155	1,84
2	997,11	2,89
3	996,065	3,93
4	995,02	4,98
5	993,975	6,02
6	992,93	7,07
7	991,885	8,12
8	990,84	9,16
9	989,795	10,20
10	988,75	11,25

So, my barley Wine OG 1094 that after 5 days was at a measured density of 1024, is not at 9% Alc., but if I correct according to the table it, is around 8%, and the apparent density of 1024 correspond to 1034: that means 90g/litro of residual sugars. So the fermentation is not finished and it will need some more days to get the real FG...

Brettanomyces

All homebrewers that like Orval, sooner or later will wonder how to reproduce it at home. Brettanomices are very hungry microrganisms, and very persistant: it's better to use dedicated tanks, and spend more time in the sanfication of bottles, fermentors etc after use.

Here my experience with recovery of Orval brettanomices:
After drinking the beer, I filled the Orval bottle with few centiliters of wort, after few days the foam started to form, so I checked yeast activity, then I transferred the bretta in half liter starter.
After three more days, brettanomices were sparkling and ready to be inoculated in wort.
First experiment was a total-Bretta fementation: two liters of easy E+G,  20 IBU, 1045 OG. Fermentation at 20-22°C with starter from a single Orval bottle: 7 days primary, 10 days lagering, bottling.
After twenty days I tried the beer. A strong solvent smell came out, fortunately vanishing quickly. The 'beer' has the tipical goût d'Orval, more stronger than the original one (at the Abbey they just use brettanomyces for secondary fermentation).

And it's using the Brett for the secondary fermentation that you can get very interesting beers: I did a bretted Tripel, OG 1079, fermented 5 giorni with T-58. Then I splitted the beer: then liter inoculated with Orval starter (see the procedure above), ten liter went on normalfermentation.
T-58 needed longer time to reach FG, that was higher than the FG reached by the Bretta: they are hungry and ferment all sugard in the wort.
After a couple of months the Tripel is really dry, and with the tipical goût d'Orval!

Few months later, I decided to CLONE the Orval:

OrvalClone, liters 20,5 (preboil 22,5)
efficiency  73%, 60 min. boiling
OG 1,055; IBU: 35,0; EBC: 20;
Malts (mash 65°C for70 minutes):
  4000 gr German 2-row Pils, 1,038;
  250 gr Crystal 105L, 1,033;
  400 gr Candi sugar (clear), 1,046;
  25 gr Chocolate Malt, 1,034;
Hops:
  32 gr Spalter, 5,9 %a.a., 60 min;
  28 gr Styrian Goldings, 4,7 %a.a., 25 min;
  17 gr hersbrucher, 3,7 %a.a., 5 min;
  6 gr spalter, 5,9 %a.a., 25 min;
  10 gr Saaz, 4,0 %a.a., 60 min;

Primary fermentation with Trappist high gravity (5gg) then secondary with Orval starter. Here the bottles:

in italiano