Black IPA

Last bottled beer is my Black IPA, 666: O 1066 and 66 IBU. Last year the beer was OK, my first Black IPA, and for the next version I just wanted to use some Chinook instead of Amarillo, to add more piney-resiny flavors, and move more hop in flavor and aroma, leaving a minimum amount in first wort hopping.

As usual, when I look at the ingredients, I have to change many things: no more Amarillo, so I used Simcoe. Then I fermented on a S-04 cake instead of US-05, so mas had to be lower, as well as the quantities of crystal: with a less attenuant yeast is better to give him more fermentable sugars, to keep te same FG as last batch and avoid the clogging sweet effect of an underattenuated beer. In the end, I changed bot grist and hopping.

Now I hope the 6 grams per liter in late boiling are enough for a good aroma, as I don’t like Dry Hopping in my beers. And I hope Simcoe smell of sweated armpit will lower down while maturing: is the second lot I use from that hop, and it gives the same bad smell as previous lot.

Pepperstout

Last bottled batch was a Dry Stout, very easy with Pale malt and 10% of black malts, Chocolate and Roasted barley. I hate astringency in datk beers, so I've been really careful: I made a diluted mash (over 3l per kg of grain) to avoid excessive acidification, then I corrected ph of sparging water below 6 to avoid tannin extraction that happens at higher ph. Sparging temperature was under 75 C to avoid further risk of tannin extraction.
At the bottling I decided to split the batch and make a couple of liters of spicy beer: I infused 20 grams of chili peppers in 20cl vodka, let them rest for a week, then I added the filtered infusion at the end of the bottling. While making those blendings, I test the quantities before, putting some drops of adding (measured with a syringe) in a glass with 10 cl of beer from the keg: here I found that 0,1ml was enough to add strong spicyness to the beer. So my 20 ml extract was enough to blend 2 liters of stout. At the end of the bottling, then, when there were two liters left in the keg, I threw the pepper extract, stirred gently and went on bottling.
Errors are always waiting for you: I had no labels ready, so I labeled the beer the following day, and I wasn't able to tell wich bottles were the spicy ones. I put those all togheter without any mark.

Maderizzazione - Secondo episodio

L'esperimento descritto qui risale ormai al 2011. Credo di avere ancora delle bottiglie avanzate, ma sono sepolte in cantina, e non verranno riesumate per parecchi anni. Nel frattempo la produzione di birre vintage va avanti: un anno fa ho imbottigliato una Ale belga fermentata con Trappist HG e lasciata a maderizzare per 5 mesi .
Questa volta la OG era più bassa, ho effettuato un priming con aggiunta di zucchero (1g/litro) e lievito fresco. Non volevo un nuovo pseudo-passito ma una birra da divano, con un pochino di gasatura. A distanza di un anno circa ho stappato una bottiglia: è una bella belgian dark strong, ma esteri e fenoli si sono ammorbiditi e sono accompanati da note di sherry non evidentissime ma presenti. Nel complesso è una buona birra da meditazione.
Ora devo imbottigliare la n.3, barley wine che sta maderizzando da luglio. Come al solito mezza cotta è già imbottigliata, e dopo sei mesi si lascia bere molto volentieri: grazie al chinook che ho usato in bollitura (avevo finito il challenger) ha una bella nota resinosa e fruttata, che purtroppo si perderà con l'invecchiamento.

Aggiornamento:
Ho stappato la n.3, dopo alcuni mesi di bottiglia (la versione maderizzata) ed oltre sei mesi la versione standard.
La versione standard ha comunque una lieve nota ossidata, assieme al usto maltato molto pieno, con note che vanno dal caramello alle melanoidine, frutta essicata, alla liquirizia; una lieve nota di uva e resinoso dato dal Chinook (ancora evidente). La maderizzata ha aromi molto più spenti, il malto è evidente ma non così variegato, ed ovviamente il legnoso e marsalato è più forte (sì, l'ossidazione da delle note legnose, anche se non è fatta in botte).
Nel complesso preferisco la versione imbottigliata fresca: per un po' gli esperimenti di maerizzazione sono sospesi!

Belle Saison and high temperature fermentation

Summer always bring high temperatures, and in my cellar is too warm to have nice and clean fermentations. I'm too lazy to build a fermentation chamber,  so I decited to test Lallemand Belle Saison yeast, to ceck if is possible to ferment in a cellar at 22°C, that means 24-25°C in the fermantation tank. I brewed some beers and fermented them in a tank surrounded by four iced water bottled and wrapped in a blanket to insulate it: direct measures on wort, showed that wort temperature was equal to cellar one. That means the heat from fermentation was balanced by my primitive cooling system.
I tried two Saison style beers, slightly different. In the third one I decided to put 10% roasted malts: I got tired of saisons, and wanted something different.

Saison 1
Malts:
  4000 gr German 2-row Pils, 96%;
  150 gr Brown sugar (dark), 4%;
Hops:
  15 gr Aramis, 7,8 %a.a., 60 min;
  20 gr Styrian Goldings, 5,7 %a.a., 60 min;
  38 gr Styrian Goldings, 5,7 %a.a., 20 min;
  30 gr Saaz, 2,3 %a.a., 5 min;
  30 gr Saaz, 2,3 %a.a., 0 min;
Yeast:
  Belle Saison, 1 pack
IBU: 43; EBC: 14
Fermentation:
Wort at 24-25°C for the first two days, then 22°C (cellar temperature).
OG 1052, FG 998

Saison 2
Malts:
  3000 gr German 2-row Pils, 1,038;
  1000 gr Munich Malt(light), 1,034;
  370 gr Oats, Flaked, 1,037;
Hops:
  20 gr Aramis, 7,8 %a.a., 60 min;
  17 gr Styrian Goldings, 5,7 %a.a., 20 min
Yeast:
  Belle Saison yeast cake
IBU: 26; EBC: 15;
Fermentation:
Wort at, 22°C controlled temperature for te whole fermentation.
OG 1056. FG 1004

Black Saison
Malts:
  1300 gr German 2-row Pils, 1,038;
  1300 gr German Light Munich, 1,037;
  150 gr Chocolate Malt, 1,034;
  150 gr Roasted Barley, 1,029;
Hops:
  20 gr Aramis, 7,8 %a.a., 60 min;
  10 gr Aramis, 7,8 %a.a., 20 min;
Yeast:
  Belle Saison yeast cake, third generation
IBU: 21,9; EBC: 64
Fermentation:
Wort at, 22°C controlled temperature for te whole fermentation
OG 1042. FG 1008

Main difference between the two Saison is due to the Munich malt: Saison 2 is darker, with higher body, also thanks to the flaked oats and the lack of sugar, while Saison 1 has an apparent FG of 0.998! If you give simple sugars to Belle, it's a piranha, but don't worry: it won't eat your fermentor nor complex sugars from special grists (mash were identical for the three batches).
Saison 1 has lots of phenols in aroma, and heavy fruity notes covering all hops aromas. Phenols are noticeable also at taste with unpleasant bitterness and high cytric notes .
Better the Saison 2, with esters more evident in aroma, wit notes of pear, grapevine uva and medium phenol (but again a bit unpleasant): lower temperature brings lower off-flavors. In this beer there are noticeable malty notes, from Munich. As always with this yeast, all fermentation notes are evident in the nose, but lighter in the flavour. Malt with a bit of melanoidins is evident but fruity esters are medium-low, distant from classic saison, while the spicy phenols and a citric note are more evident.
Those two beers are not comparable with Black Saison: here roasted malts covered all fermentation aromas, just a hint of ester to the nose: roasted malts worked as concrete to cover in black phenols and off flavors. The only disturbing detail is the citric saison-like acidity that is not suited at all with roasty notese (to have an idea, try to squeeze a slice of lemon in a pint of Guinness if you dare).

In the end, to use Belle Saison at best, better to keep temperatures around 20°C and raise after 4-5 days when strong fermentation is over.
In other words, I need a fermentation chamber.

My worst homebrewing mistakes

Here the seven worst errors made during my homebrewing years. Small distractions and huge mistakes.

7) Wrong Preboil OG
After sparging, I went to take a sample from the boiling pot to measure preboil OG. After cooling I read it with a densimeter: 1,026. What?!? Mash and sparge went well, iodium was OK, same procedure as ever..well, maybe malt was too old and lost some conversion power. Well, I didn't want a 1,030 OG beer, so I added sugar, did a 90 minutes boil to add some OG points and added a bunch of american hops to make a zesty session beer to drink during summer. After cooling the worth, I measured again the density: 1052.
I made a huge mistake taking the sample for the preboil OG measure: I took it from the upper part of the worth, without stirring, so I measured the lowest density worth coming from the end of the sparge.

6) Diamalt (bakery malt extract)
At dawn of homebrewing in Italy, many websites (and many homebrewer) used to brew with baking malt extract: cheaper than extract malt and similar, everybody tought it was the same thing. Including me. I got this Diamalt extract from a bakery and brewed an English Ale. The beer was something acid but sweet, with vanishing fizzy head, no hop aroma.

5) Wrong priming procedure
It was my second brew from kit, and I wanted to improve bottling and priming: not sugar in the bottle anymore, but mixing all sugar with the beer. So I measured sugar, made a syrup and added it in the primary fermentor. Without moving the beer in a secondary tank. I stirred very gently, to avoid to move the yeast cake and the bottled. Obviously, bottles had a huge sediment and beer was undrinkable...

4) Burning Mash
I mash in a 25 liter pot, on the fire to set temperature: here you must be careful to not overheat the whole mash. I just tried once an Imperial Stout, that was when I forgon the fire on after 30 minutes mashing. It reached 75°C, enough to denature enzymes and block conversion reaction. I went on anyway, mashing at alpha amylase temperature, but I had a very low efficiency and a 1050 OG after boiling. Anyway, the stout I produced was quite OK.

3) Open spigot
The fermenting tank was sanitized and ready to be filled with worth, after six hours process. I started the transfer from the pot and I realized the tank spigot was open, and the worth pissing out on the floor. I tried to close the spigot, but it was wet and slippery, so I drop the tube spilling worth, closed the spigot, trow on myself some worth, cleaned the couple of liters that went on the floor and started back the transfer from the pot. I was pissed off and tired, so I just sucked the tube to make empty and start the tube transfer. It works, you don't get any problem or infection if you do it correctly. No need for pumps or other strange method to prime the tube.

2) Dirty hop bag
Once I brewed an heater beer: To give it aroma, I added some heater flowers at the end of the boiling. The problem is that I added those flowers at flameout without sanitizing the hopbag (heater has tiny and light flowers; I didn't want them floating on the top of the worth). This hopbag spent few months in a drawer, colletting all the bacteria that were in my kitchen (not really clean...). I got an acid infection, and after a couple of months, when I tasted my Heater Ale I found out a nice sour beer.

1) Missed FG and explosions in the cellar
I was a noob at my third brew by kit: I bottled at 1,020 density, as the FG concept was not clear to me and I did't consider effect of overcarbonation. It was summer, and one morning explosion came from the cellar. I was lucky nobody was around, I just had to clean the mess of beer and glass and did,t get hurt.
THIS IS THE MOST DANGEROUS MISTAKE EVERY HOMEBREWER CAN DO, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER BOTTLE IF YOU DIDN'T REACH FG, AND DENSITY ISN'T STABLE FOR A FEW DAYS.

Spent grain snack bars

Homebrewing is a really unefficient process. I get 5 kilograms of grains every batch, and living in the city, the only way to get rid of them is to recycle in the organic bin. No chicken, no pigs to feed with it. I saved some grain from the last homebrew and made some kind of snack bars.

Ingredients:
300g spent grains
40g sugar
60ml water
15g butter

Dry the grains in oven, 100°C for a couple of hours (you can do that the evening before, or after sparging).
Make a sugar syrup: add sugar and water and bring to boil, keep it boiling for 5-10 minutes, until it's enough dense.
Then add the butter and let it melt, mixing everything.
Add the dryed grains, mix with a spoon, and put the mix on a baking tray, heat the oven at 100°C for 30 minutes, then let everything cool down for some hours

Now you can cut or break it in small bars.

The recipe is quite easy, you cannot use the whole grain but is a cool and tasty snack, the perfect food to calm down the hunger after drinking too many beers...

Prague

Czech Republic is the homeland of Pilsner Urquell, the land of Saaz hop and where the lager beer born. Since then, there was no great improvement in beer: you can find good (and bad) pilsner at a good price (2-3€ per liter), a dark beer (kind of a schwartzbeer) and nothing more: one of the most innovative beers here is the Staropramen unfiltered lager. I still can't understand why you ferment at low temperature to have a clean taste, and then leave a lot of yeast to make the beer hazy and add yeast flavours and off-flavours.
I visited this pub: http://www.praguebeermuseum.com/ with 30 taps, almost all lagers from Czech Republic, I tasted a Cerna Hora Qvasar that was badly stocked and was stinking, and a 'moravian ale' with Saaz hops higly fermented: well, it's a waste to charge such noble hop with ale esters.
Here is a good brewery, close to Petrinske Sadi park http://www.klasterni-pivovar.cz/. They have good lager (obviously), but also Weizend and a IPA: classic and simple with Amarillo and Cascade, the kind of american IPA I really like.
To have a good and cheap dinner check here http://www.kolkovna.cz/ the Pilsner Urquell restaurants. But the best Urquell I tasted was the tank one at the bar on top of the Riegrovy Sady park, fresher and with more intense hop flavours.
If you walk around Loretanska street, there is a small bistro with no name; hey just talk in czeck but have menu in different languages, so it's perfect for a cheap lunch and a good beer.